It's wedding season, and yours truly has decided to take the plunge. As you might imagine, cake is one of the reasons I get up in the morning, so I've been having all kinds of wonderful daydreams about a beautiful, scrumptious wedding cake.
I'm not fond of fondant; I like a decadent buttercream that's edible through and through. So, when choosing our vendor, I approached the Queen of Meringue Buttercream Herself: Sarabeth Levine. Sarabeth prides herself on her smooth, rich buttercream, which has the visual perfection of fondant without the waxy texture.
Sarabeth does all cake tastings in her Chelsea Market bakery. It's difficult not to be tempted by the goodies at the counter, and as I waited for our appointment last week, I collected a peach tart, chocolate-chip cookies, blueberry-corn muffins, brownies and a "Sarabeth's Famous Grilled Cheese Sandwich." Then, before I could do any more damage, Sarabeth strode out in a white coat and brought me into the kitchen. She plopped several jars onto a large wooden table, and then brought out some small discs of yellow genoise.
"Um, Sarabeth," I said meekly, "weren't we doing a chocolate cake?" "Chocolate wedding cake is too heavy," she remarked. "Although, I do make a rich, chocolate chocolate truffle cake... but you'll love this, try what I have here." I trusted her implicitly and abandoned my wild ideas for five different tiers of cake (hazelnut mousse! raspberry mousse! etc.).
The jars contained pure buttercream, Callebaut chocolate truffle, chocolate espresso truffle, homemade marmalade, and Sarabeth's famous strawberry-raspberry preserves. Sarabeth slathered the moist genoise with layers of buttercream, marmalade, and a mixture of the chocolate and chocolate espresso truffle. (She had me try the chocolate with and without the added coffee accent; we both agreed that the coffee brought the chocolate truffle to the next rich level.) She then added two more layers of genoise, and put a metal cylinder over the delicious mini-layer cake to shape it. She cut a piece for me, and I was on cloud nine. I could barely concentrate as she explained how she would add a bit of orange juice to the buttercream to complement the marmalade in the filling, and how she always added a bit of buttercream between the layers of cake.
To ensure that I was happy with my decision (apparently, only one in ten people chooses chocolate-orange; many more choose lemon), I was also asked to try the chocolate-strawberry-raspberry combination. Although this was delightful as well, the slight tartness of the marmalade so expertly complemented the rich chocolate truffle as to make up my mind.
Sarabeth then packed up little containers of all the components so that my mother and my intended could taste each of them separately. (She is truly a woman passionate about her ingredients!) We then went into her back office to speak about cake decorations, but all I could think about was that chocolate-coffee-orange-buttercream filling...
Sarabeth's Bakery: Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Ave., (212) 989-2424.
Sunday, July 31, 2005
Tuesday, July 26, 2005
Aburiya Kinnosuke
This new favorite of Japanese businessmen provides the spectacle of Megu on a much more intimate scale. Various delicacies arrive on personal charcoal grills (shichirin), or in hotpots with flames which magically disappear when the meal is ready. Amazingly, Aburiya offers this authentic experience at a fraction of Megu's cost. Last night, a friend and I enjoyed an impressive 7-course feast for only $30 each!
Since the menu was divided into so many categories, we decided to try as many different preparations as possible. We chose a hotpot, a shichirin, a chef's special, a tofu dish, a grilled vegetable, a tsukune (chicken meatball) and an eel dish.
After a cup of roasted green tea, we began with the black sesame tofu. This pudding-like dish, which we ate with wooden spoons, was made especially flavorful with the addition of rich soy sauce. Then, the personal grill was delivered to us with a healthy portion of tarako, or cod roe caviar. The waitress helpfully informed us that the caviar would change color when it was ready to be eaten, and indeed it turned from bright orange to light pink.
Soon, a tray of strips of lemon-zested fresh-water eel was served. For those of you more accustomed to the barbecued glazed eel (unagi) at sushi bars, this eel was white and slightly chewy. There were about 10 strips of the delicious fish on our tray.
The chef's special, a foil-wrapped salmon, was the star of the evening. The experience of eating this tender, moist fish could only be described as sensual. We tore it apart and ate every last bite. We accompanied the salmon with a grilled head of garlic with sweet miso jam.
Then it was time for an oniony chicken meatball, which arrived, interestingly, with a bowl of steamed egg for dipping. (Are you going to ask "which came first?") We'd had a choice of "salt" or "teriyaki" for the chicken, and were glad we'd chosen the latter, as the meatball was glazed with a tasty sweet soy sauce. It was so large that the waitress was able to cut it into 8 piecesa.
We'd also ordered an eel hotpot (there were three choices: eel, mushroom or pork). For most of the evening, I anxiously glanced at the flame, wondering when the treat would be ready. Then, after becoming lost in the enjoyment of the other dishes, I happened to look over to see that the flame had gone out! We pulled off the scorchingly hot lid to reveal steaming glutinous rice covered with sweet barbecued eel. A small plate of sansho pepper and shiso leaves was provided for seasoning.
We would've liked to have tried the sushi specials (fatty tuna, amberjack) or a fried dish (or dessert!), but our stomachs protested. However, I have a feeling that we'll be back at Aburiya Kinnosuke very soon.
Aburiya Kinnosuke: 213 East 45th St., (212) 867-5454.
Since the menu was divided into so many categories, we decided to try as many different preparations as possible. We chose a hotpot, a shichirin, a chef's special, a tofu dish, a grilled vegetable, a tsukune (chicken meatball) and an eel dish.
After a cup of roasted green tea, we began with the black sesame tofu. This pudding-like dish, which we ate with wooden spoons, was made especially flavorful with the addition of rich soy sauce. Then, the personal grill was delivered to us with a healthy portion of tarako, or cod roe caviar. The waitress helpfully informed us that the caviar would change color when it was ready to be eaten, and indeed it turned from bright orange to light pink.
Soon, a tray of strips of lemon-zested fresh-water eel was served. For those of you more accustomed to the barbecued glazed eel (unagi) at sushi bars, this eel was white and slightly chewy. There were about 10 strips of the delicious fish on our tray.
The chef's special, a foil-wrapped salmon, was the star of the evening. The experience of eating this tender, moist fish could only be described as sensual. We tore it apart and ate every last bite. We accompanied the salmon with a grilled head of garlic with sweet miso jam.
Then it was time for an oniony chicken meatball, which arrived, interestingly, with a bowl of steamed egg for dipping. (Are you going to ask "which came first?") We'd had a choice of "salt" or "teriyaki" for the chicken, and were glad we'd chosen the latter, as the meatball was glazed with a tasty sweet soy sauce. It was so large that the waitress was able to cut it into 8 piecesa.
We'd also ordered an eel hotpot (there were three choices: eel, mushroom or pork). For most of the evening, I anxiously glanced at the flame, wondering when the treat would be ready. Then, after becoming lost in the enjoyment of the other dishes, I happened to look over to see that the flame had gone out! We pulled off the scorchingly hot lid to reveal steaming glutinous rice covered with sweet barbecued eel. A small plate of sansho pepper and shiso leaves was provided for seasoning.
We would've liked to have tried the sushi specials (fatty tuna, amberjack) or a fried dish (or dessert!), but our stomachs protested. However, I have a feeling that we'll be back at Aburiya Kinnosuke very soon.
Aburiya Kinnosuke: 213 East 45th St., (212) 867-5454.
Thursday, July 21, 2005
Saravanaas
As I've written before, finding good Indian food in NYC is not an easy task. However, the opening of Saravanaas has truly improved the Indian restaurant scene!
Open since only last Thursday, this cheery little place was packed last night, even 30 minutes before closing. But although there were many patrons, the service was charming and attentive. (A word to the meatophiles: Saravanaas is completely vegetarian.)
The menu includes appetizers, a dosa corner, thalis, a rice corner and a bread corner. I am of the "try as much as you can" school, so I ordered a thali, or, combination meal. Paying lip service to moderation, I asked for the smallest thali, the mini tiffin.
Along came a round silver tray on which sat a gut-busting variety of food. "Is that all for me?" I asked, astonished. There was a Thermos-sized masala dosa with a side of lentil gravy, a portion of idli stew, a mound of roasted farina, coconut chutney and a spicy green mayonnaise-like sauce, and finally, a "sweetmeat." The masala dosa, a kind of crispy crepe, was ultra-light and contained a toothsome spiced mashed potato filling. I'm truly a fan of idli, the little lentil-flour frisbees that are somewhat akin to gnocchi, so I enjoyed the stew of carrots, green beans and idli with a bit of bay leaf and mustard seed. The chili-spiced farina was mixed with onions, tomatoes and peas. Everything was gloriously spicy. "Hot enough for you?" asked the waiter. "We want to see you glow!"
After enjoying a few bites of raisin-studded sweetmeat and a sip of mango lassi, it was finally time to go. (Upon leaving, I noticed a pile of advertisements for a yoga class. As if one could even think of exercising after such a meal!)
Saravanaas: 81 Lexington Ave., (212) 679-0204.
Open since only last Thursday, this cheery little place was packed last night, even 30 minutes before closing. But although there were many patrons, the service was charming and attentive. (A word to the meatophiles: Saravanaas is completely vegetarian.)
The menu includes appetizers, a dosa corner, thalis, a rice corner and a bread corner. I am of the "try as much as you can" school, so I ordered a thali, or, combination meal. Paying lip service to moderation, I asked for the smallest thali, the mini tiffin.
Along came a round silver tray on which sat a gut-busting variety of food. "Is that all for me?" I asked, astonished. There was a Thermos-sized masala dosa with a side of lentil gravy, a portion of idli stew, a mound of roasted farina, coconut chutney and a spicy green mayonnaise-like sauce, and finally, a "sweetmeat." The masala dosa, a kind of crispy crepe, was ultra-light and contained a toothsome spiced mashed potato filling. I'm truly a fan of idli, the little lentil-flour frisbees that are somewhat akin to gnocchi, so I enjoyed the stew of carrots, green beans and idli with a bit of bay leaf and mustard seed. The chili-spiced farina was mixed with onions, tomatoes and peas. Everything was gloriously spicy. "Hot enough for you?" asked the waiter. "We want to see you glow!"
After enjoying a few bites of raisin-studded sweetmeat and a sip of mango lassi, it was finally time to go. (Upon leaving, I noticed a pile of advertisements for a yoga class. As if one could even think of exercising after such a meal!)
Saravanaas: 81 Lexington Ave., (212) 679-0204.
Wednesday, July 13, 2005
Oms/b
Omusubi, or Japanese rice balls stuffed with various fillings, are the perfect picnic food. They're much more portable than sandwiches, since the fillings are tightly packed inside the rice. The rice also protects the perishable fillings against the heat. Usually, omusubi are filled with salmon, tuna, cod roe, or salty plum paste. However, a Manhattan cafe, Oms/b, offers a Baskin-Robbins-like menu of omusubi flavors. Bored of salmon flakes? Try the chili mayo-coated fried shrimp popcorn on chive rice. Tired of tuna? Maybe you should order the marinated ribs on lettuce-wrapped rice, or the buttery sauteed scallops and asparagus on peppered rice with spinach.
Oms/b also serves a variety of refreshing summer desserts. (However, you'll want to eat these right up, as they're too perishable for a picnic.) So, after you've downed a few omusubi, you'll want a nutty black and white sesame panna cotta topped with a blackberry, or a Japanese citrus cheesecake, or a creamy jasmine orange mousse.
Oms/b: 156 East 45th St., (212) 922-9788. The cafe closes at 7:30 p.m.; for the greatest variety of omusubi, make sure to arrive much earlier.
Oms/b also serves a variety of refreshing summer desserts. (However, you'll want to eat these right up, as they're too perishable for a picnic.) So, after you've downed a few omusubi, you'll want a nutty black and white sesame panna cotta topped with a blackberry, or a Japanese citrus cheesecake, or a creamy jasmine orange mousse.
Oms/b: 156 East 45th St., (212) 922-9788. The cafe closes at 7:30 p.m.; for the greatest variety of omusubi, make sure to arrive much earlier.
Tuesday, July 12, 2005
Museum Meals
The recent heat wave has chased me into air-conditioned movie theatres and museums. But I must shamefully admit that upon entering a museum, one of my first acts is to scope out the dining options. An empty stomach inhibits my appreciation of fine art!
However, I generally like to eat a lighter meal before strolling through an exhibition, rather than indulging in a multi-course feast. Last week, I decided to compare light meals at MOMA and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Although I cannot offer you an informed comparison of the exhibitions, I must say that MOMA came out the culinary winner.
At the Met cafeteria, I sat down to a forlorn strip of dried-out salmon with a side of inedible pineapple salsa, tasteless asparagus and potatoes. (In the Met's defense, there was a nice smoothie bar.) But the Bar at MOMA was a more artistic experience on all levels! A hearty artichoke cream soup with Maine lobster, wild mushroom-chorizo wontons, and seared tuna provided my friends and I with much satisfaction. The only problem with such good food at a museum restaurant is that it is difficult to pull yourself away from the table!
However, I generally like to eat a lighter meal before strolling through an exhibition, rather than indulging in a multi-course feast. Last week, I decided to compare light meals at MOMA and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Although I cannot offer you an informed comparison of the exhibitions, I must say that MOMA came out the culinary winner.
At the Met cafeteria, I sat down to a forlorn strip of dried-out salmon with a side of inedible pineapple salsa, tasteless asparagus and potatoes. (In the Met's defense, there was a nice smoothie bar.) But the Bar at MOMA was a more artistic experience on all levels! A hearty artichoke cream soup with Maine lobster, wild mushroom-chorizo wontons, and seared tuna provided my friends and I with much satisfaction. The only problem with such good food at a museum restaurant is that it is difficult to pull yourself away from the table!
Sunday, July 10, 2005
Sunday, July 03, 2005
Fig & Olive
Following in the footsteps of La Table O & Co., the new Fig & Olive opened its doors on the Upper East Side. The two-month old Mediterranean cafe sports an olive bar and a pantry full of extra-virgin olive oil from France, Italy and Spain. Complementary olive oil tastings are offered; yesterday, the tasting consisted of three oils described as "warm and buttery," "peppery" and "crisp."
The cafe serves a delightful weekend brunch; I enjoyed the Mediterranean eggs served on homemade fougasse with marinated raw salmon, dill and white cheese. Other menu items include various carpaccios such as Spanish ham with Aguibal Manzanilla olive oil, and a selection of tartines, salads and soups. After your meal, don't forget to take home a bag of fig walnut biscotti or fresh-baked honey-lavender madeleines.
So if your holiday plans don't include Provence, just hop a cab to Lexington Avenue!
Fig & Olive: 808 Lexington Ave., (212) 207-4555
The cafe serves a delightful weekend brunch; I enjoyed the Mediterranean eggs served on homemade fougasse with marinated raw salmon, dill and white cheese. Other menu items include various carpaccios such as Spanish ham with Aguibal Manzanilla olive oil, and a selection of tartines, salads and soups. After your meal, don't forget to take home a bag of fig walnut biscotti or fresh-baked honey-lavender madeleines.
So if your holiday plans don't include Provence, just hop a cab to Lexington Avenue!
Fig & Olive: 808 Lexington Ave., (212) 207-4555
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